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De trends vanaf de catwalk in New York

De trends vanaf de catwalk in New York

 

De modeweek in New York heeft het seizoen officieel geopend verklaard. Er volgen nog shows in Londen, Parijs en Milaan en ook Madrid probeert er zich tussen te wringen. De eerste trends voor volgende lente en zomer hebben zich intussen laten zien. We zetten ze even op een rijtje.

1)    Kleurloos
De lente- en zomercollecties werden gedomineerd door wit, crème, beige, caramel en (geel)bruin, zoals bij Donna Karan, Anna Sui en Ralph Lauren. Niet meteen flatterend voor de bleekscheten onder ons, maar wel koel en verfrissend voor alweer een hete zomer.
Voor avondjurken kon kleur wel, en dan werd opvallend vaak voor felgeel en fuchsia gekozen.

2)    Gebloemd
De bloemenprint is nog altijd een grote hit bij ontwerpers, met dit verschil dat de bloemen groot zijn en volledig uitgetekend. Alsof je met een stukje klaprozenveld of rozentuin op je jurk rondhuppelt.
Ook volumineuze laagjes in de vorm van bloemen waren erg in trek.

3)    Au naturel
Opvallend weinig make-up op de catwalks - of zo zag het er toch uit. De rode noch nude lippen kwamen massaal terug, de wenkbrauwen mochten soms zelfs blijven staan. 

4)    Net of warrig
Ook het kapsel was vaak 'naturel', loshangend en gekamd in middenscheiding. Maar er waren enkele uitzonderingen, zoals de 'vogelnestjes' bij Zang Toi of Vera Wang.

5)    Lang, kort en alles ertussenin
Eén roklengte is er niet: zowel lange jurken, minirokken als de midi-lengte werd gespot op de catwalk. De maxi-jurk lijkt wel definitief op de terugweg.

6)    Shorts
Shorts zijn onlosmakelijk verbonden met de zomer, en dat is voor volgend jaar niet anders.  De minuscule hotpants worden wel ingewisseld voor deftige katoenen exemplaren.

7)    Buik en heupen
Misschien in een poging om rondingen te suggereren werd opvallend vaak de nadruk gelegd op de buik en heupen. Sommige ontwerpers verwerkten een boog in hun kledij, die alle blikken naar de buik en heupen zoog, anderen plooiden het bovenlijfje dubbel waardoor een losse beweging rond de middel ontstaat. Of het ook werkelijk flatterend is voor iemand met buik, billen en heupen valt af te wachten.

De navel  kwam ook weer voorzichtig tevoorschijn. We durven er ons geld nog niet op inzetten, maar werken aan die buikspieren kan nooit kwaad. 

8)    Hoofddeksels
Opvallend veel hoofddeksels gespot op de catwalk, maar eenheid  is er niet. Kiest de ene voor een brede strohoed, dan de andere voor een bolhoed (Ralph Lauren) , een safari-cloche (Marc Jacobs) of zelfs gewoonweg mutsen (Charlotte Ronson).  Wat je ook doet, een hoofddeksel mag. 

9)    Zonnebrillen
Opvallend weinig zonnebrillen op de catwalk. Ze worden kleiner (Tommy Hilfiger) en ronder (Diane Von Furstenberg).

10)    Schoenen
Hoog blijven de schoenen sowieso, maar de hak en zool worden wel dikker en steviger. Dé stijl is een gekruiste sandaal: dikke leren riemen die elkaar kruisen en open tenen.

 

Door: Linda de Jager

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